1 Wean the fry off live food.  When the fry are about a month old you can gradually start switching the fry to frozen and then freeze-dried and flake or pellet food. Make sure the food is crushed small enough for their tiny mouths. Offer small amounts, and wean them off the live food slowly. Always remove uneaten food. [16] Putting guppy fry in the tank may help as they will eat the pellets. Then the betta fry will start to eat them too. 2 Separate males.  When the male fry begin fighting (anywhere from 5-8 weeks of age), it is time to remove them from the tank. Place them in individual tanks close to one another, as they can become depressed if suddenly isolated. Males that are not fighting can be left with the females until they become aggressive. Some males will refuse to eat the first day or two; try feeding them live food to stimulate their appetite. Continue to separate out all male and aggressive fish as they become apparent. In the following days and weeks you w...

  1 Wait for fry to hatch.  When the fry initially hatch they will hang from the bubble nest, and the male will replace any that fall. After a few days, the fry will begin "free-swimming," swimming horizontally and venturing away from the nest. Before this, the fry will be feeding on what's left of the egg yolk, and cannot eat on their own 2 Remove the male from the tank, being very careful not to net any fry.  He can return to his normal routine and feeding schedule. If he is still looking ragged from the courtship, add some Maroxy to help him heal 3 Feed the fry.  As soon as you remove the male, feed the fry a small portion of live microworms. Feed twice a day, and watch closely to see how much is eaten. If live microworms are still present when it is time for the next feeding, you can skip it since the fry still have food. If you see many dead microworms, you are overfeeding, so cut back on the portions. Fry need to be fed very small, living food such as, [13] Inf...

  1 Remove the divider.  Once your male is ready to breed, he will build a large bubble nest which will take 2-3 days. When this happens, turn off the filter and release the female into the tank, but be sure to keep an eye on the pair. The male will probably bully her some, nipping at fins and chasing her around. This is ok as long as neither fish's life is in danger. This courtship may last several hours or even days. Be sure there are plenty of hiding places for the female to escape the bullying, and check on the pair regularly to prevent serious injuries  2 Let nature take its course.  The male will finally get the female under his bubble nest and they will embrace. It may take a few embraces to produce eggs. Then the female will go into a 'zombie-like' state while the white eggs fall to the ground from her little white ovipositor. The male will swim down and scoop them up, putting them one by one into the nest. Some females will help with this once they recover, ...

  1 Let them settle in.  It's best to have your bettas for a few months before you start breeding to allow them to adapt to their environment. Remember, however, that males breed best when they are no more than 14 months old. Plan to breed them when you have a long, uninterrupted stretch of free time.  Once you introduce the male and female, you will need to devote at least a few hours every single day for more than 2 months to caring for the pair and their young. Make sure you don't have any vacations, business trips, or high-stress events coming up. 2 Set up your breeding tank.  The breeding tank should be 5–10 gallons (18.9–37.9 L) and be equipped with a removable divider, a few hiding places, an adjustable filter (such as a sponge filter with a gang valve), and a heater set to around 80 °F (27 °C). Never add gravel or other substrate to the breeding tank because the eggs will get lost when they fall to the bottom. Only fill this tank with 5"-6" of ...